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TIME WILL TALK : ROARINGWILD X G-SHOCK INTERVIEW
> 2017 09/01 EDIT : Qiaochen


ROARINGWILD X G-SHOCK PROJECT



ROARINGWILD,中国第二代街头品牌的领军者,以 Urban Street 为主要风格方向,将 Outdoor 以及 Military 等主要定向元素融合在服装系统之中,从品牌建立之初便已经有非常完整的 Branding 制作以及产品构成。作为第二代的本土品牌,ROARINGWILD 有着较高的起点,同时亦承担着更大的压力,够硬的产品质素和设计轮廓让 ROARINGWILD 迅速积累人气,新世代的品牌,亦有着新世代的规模。蒙秉安(BG),ROARINGWILD 的设计师,大学在读期间与另五位爱好街头文化的同伴于一起创立了 ROARINGWILD 品牌,作为设计师的 BG 一人操刀 ROARINGWILD 所有服装设计,要知道ROARINGWILD 每季的 SKU 数量是极其庞大的,并且除去基本款外,ROARINGWILD 通常在廓形、细节、材质以及制作工艺上都要比传统街头品牌复杂一些,通过本次采访我才知道,原来设计师就一个人,其他主理人都在负责品牌其他相关事宜。


ROARINGWILD,is the second generation street brand leader in China, Urban Street is the main style, the main directional elements such as Outdoor and Military are integrated into the clothing system, from the beginning, it already has the completely branding establishment and product composition. As the second generation local brand, ROARINGWILD has higher starting level, also bear the greater pressure , the outstanding product quality and design outline make ROARINGWILD more and more popular, the new era  brand, also has the size of what it should have.Meng Bingan (BG), designer of ROARINGWILD, create the ROARINGWILD brand with five other fellow street-culture partners in college , all the  ROARINGWILD clothes are designed by himself. As you know, ROARINGWILD quarterly SKU quantity is extremely huge. Except the basic style, ROARINGWILD usually be more complicated than traditional street brand in silhouette, details, materials and workmanship, I know from this interview that they only have one designer and the other founders are responsible for other related issues.




ROARINGWILD 共有六位主理人,除了左一我们本次的采访对象:设计师 BG 外,依次分别是运营总监 CY,生产总监 Reika,产品销售 PPC(也是 LOOKBOOK 里常出现的那个人),视觉设计 QIAO,以及品牌推广 MIMI。在透过本次拍摄后,我亦深刻的感受到 ROARINGWILD 品牌构架十分清晰,分工明确,包括工作室亦有着大品牌的形态,长江后浪推前浪来形容 ROARINGWILD 最合适不过。


ROARINGWILD totally has six founders, except the interviewee , designer BG, respectively are director of operations CY, production director Reika, marketing director PPC (also the man who often appear in LOOKBOOK), the director of visual QIAO, and brand manager MIMI. After this film, I also deeply felt ROARINGWILD brand has a very clear division of structure and responsibility, including great brand image, it is the most appropriate description for ROARINGWILD that waves pushed before.




在整个 ROARINGWILD 的服装系统中,BG 坚持将户外,军事,运动以及工装元素融合在整体的 Urban Street Wear 中,在通过品牌特立的调性将元素本身 ROARINGWILD 化,整个产品系列体系化极强、完成度极高,但又并非必须穿一套才能出效果,设计概念和界限拿捏的十分老练。在配色部分,除去男装定番的黑、白、蓝、灰以外,大地色系是 ROARINGWILD 在配色构成方面的另一重要趋向,这和户外以及军事风格有关之外,亦是设计师 BG 本身自己喜欢的色调,枣红、墨绿、土黄以及深紫这些较难运用并且很少出现的配色经常出现在 ROARINGWILD 的产品之中,这点是我喜爱 ROARINGWILD 的重要原因之一。


In the whole ROARINGWILD clothing system, BG will insist on outdoor, military, sports, and outfit element integration in the overall Urban Street Wear, through brand tenet's ROARINGWILD tonal element itself, the whole product series has very strong systematic and complete degree, but it does not have to wear one suit to work out, the design concept and boundaries of balance is very sophisticated.In color matching section, besides men's black, white, blue, grey, the ground color is ROARINGWILD another important matching trend, it is related to outdoor and military style, also is the color that he likes , purplish red, blackish green, yellowish brown, and deep purple color which are rarely and difficult used often appear in the product of ROARINGWILD, this is one of the important reasons I like ROARINGWILD.











K: KIMO LEE @ YOHO MAGAZINE  /  B: BG @ ROARINGWILD





K:你是干嘛的?介绍下自己吧!

K: What’s your job? Introduce yourself!



B:我是 BG,可以叫我饼干,是 ROARINGWILD 的主理人之一。

B: I'm BG. You can call me "Biscuits". I'm one of ROARINGWILD's founders.



K:军事和户外这两大风格一直都融入在 ROARINGWILD 的服装体系之中,同时科技感以及科技物料亦是 ROARINGWILD 有在考究的,这类型的产品要比传统品牌难做多了吧?

K: Military and outdoor these two kinds of style have always been harmony among ROARINGWILD clothing system, at the same time, science and technology materials are also what ROARINGWILD’s pays attention to, these kind of  products could be more difficult than traditional brand, right?



B:军事和户外是潮流、街头这类的品牌甚至是对于男装来说都比较钟爱的两个风格。尤其是户外机能性的东西,在供应链和做工上,会比传统的服装更加深入耗时。的确从制作的角度来讲都是比较有难度的,会出现开发出产率低等一些问题,所以也是更具有风险的。但是我们很喜欢这一类的东西,所以会比较多的在这方面去做尝试和努力,挑战一下自己。

B: Military and outdoor is the trend, these street brand is what men’s most favorite two style. Especially in outdoor functional, in the supply chain and workmanship, will be more time-consuming than traditional clothing. It is difficult to make from the point of view of production, and there will be some problems with low production rate, so it is also more risky. But we like these kind of things, so we will try more in this area to challenge ourselves.







K:ROARINGWILD 算是第二代中国街头品牌,你们的起点是比较高的,亦更有经验,我看到你们早期的产品以及 Branding 都做的很不错,少走了很多弯路,这样也有更大的压力吧?

K: ROARINGWILD is the second generation of Chinese street brand, your starting point is relatively high, also have more experience, I can see the early products and Branding is very good, it took less time to try, does that make you feel more pressure?



B:是的。我们算是在一个比较好的浪潮里,消费者、市场包括电商媒体等,都是在我们刚开始做的时候就已经有了一个很好的方向,一个很好的土壤。而且我觉得正是有了第一代前辈们的沉淀,所以说我们会有了一些运营品牌的借鉴,从中再去做不一样的改变。而做品牌就好像在拍一部电影,讲一个故事一样,可能每一年每一个季度都是一个新的故事,不一定新的一季会比上季更好看,所以肯定会有压力。当然我们追求的不是心跳式的增长,而是一个阶梯性的增长,所以这既是压力也是一个动力,想把每一个故事都能讲的更好听好看。

B: Yes. We are in a good environment, including electrical business media, consumers, market, when we start to do we can have a very good direction, a good soil. And I think it is the precipitation of the first generation of seniors, so we will have some reference to operate the brand, from which we will make different changes. Do the brand as if in a film, tell a story, it can be different every year, every quarter, it may not as good as  the last season, so we do have pressure. Of course, what we are pursuing is not the cardiac growth, but a stepwise growth, so this is not only a pressure but also a motivation, to tell each story more attractive.



K:ROARINGWILD 推出了很多款中文或者英文的 Slogan Tee,似乎品牌很少使用图像作为设计元素?

K: ROARINGWILD has launched a number of Chinese or English versions of the Slogan Tee, and it seems that brands rarely use images as a design element?



B:确实会更少一点,但现在也会慢慢多起来。这可能跟我们品牌运营的做法有关,对比其他品牌,或者从设计的角度来说,我们的方向不太一样。我们会更注重从整体的廓形、产品陈列的色系分布以及上下装 MD 比例等等这些方面,去考虑这个产品的整体架构。除此之外,在每一季的主题当中,从做工、印花等东西去表现的时候,我们其实图形和文字也会用到。但我个人认为文字有时候比图形来的更为直接明了,具有独特的语言魅力以及双关等意义,这在服装上就能发挥非常强而有力的作用了。尤其是中文,这种语言是非常美的,而且非常有意思。我们从这个角度来看的话,我们对图案或文字,都只是我们设计的一部分。在整体品牌述说的故事来看,有很多整体性的考虑,那么文字和图形都只是其中一个点。

B: It does go a little bit less, but it will be gradually used more in the future. This may be related to the way of our brand operation, compared to other brands, or from a design perspective, our direction is different. We will pay more attention to the overall structure of the product in terms of the overall shape, the color distribution of the display of the product and the MD radio etc.. Besides that, in each quarterly subject, from production, printing and other things to perform, we actually use graphics and words. But in my opinion, I think sometimes words can be more straightforward than graphics, it has unique language charm and double customs, this can play a very strong and powerful role in clothing. Especially Chinese, it can be very beautiful and interesting. From this point, no matter graphics or words, they are all parts of our design. From the story of what the whole brand is telling, we have overall consideration, graphics and words are just the only one point of them.







K:ROARINGWILD 每个季度推出如此多的单品数量,整个设计团队有多少人?怎么分工的?

K: ROARINGWILD launches so many single items per quarter, how much people in the entire design team? What's the division of labors?



B:现在团队有 18-20 个稳定的成员,设计师就我一个人,我的团队有 5 个助理去协助我分担供应链、工厂、制作工艺的把控、质量控制以及纸样开发、跟单等等的工作。我们的做法和其他品牌不太一样,这也是我们人数众多的原因之一。其他品牌多数会以小而精的模式去走,做一个模块化、外发轻量化的一个体系来运营。我们更多的会亲力亲为,去亲自把控每一个步骤,每一个流程。其实并没有太多的差异,但我们就是想要这样子,也更适合我们品牌的做法。

B: Currently we have 18-20 stable members, I am the only one designer, 5 assistants assist me to charge the supply chain, manufacturing, making process, quality control, pattern development, and documentary etc.. We have different operation way from other brands, that is also the reason why we have more staff. Most other brands will go with small, refined models to run a modular, externalized system. More of us will be hands-on, personally controlling every step, every process. It doesn’t have too much difference, we just want it, it is also a more suitable operation way for our brand.



K:你们常常会推出画册式的 Lookbook,并且做的很有品质,在这方面下功夫的中国街头品牌其实并不多,说说你们的想法吧!

K: You often come up with a picture book of LOOKBOOK, and the quality is really good, in this respect there is not too much Chinese street brand working on it, could you please tell us your thoughts!



B:我们觉得一个品牌的体现其实并不只是产品,也不能只局限在产品。而是所有的一切媒介都可以是载体,去成为传播我们品牌的工具。产品也好,活动也好,一首歌也好,一本小的画册也好。从服装甚至到所有的家居,或者是一杯酒,他都有可能成为一个工具去传播。这个画册对我们来说就是载体,去记录一些我们想要说的话,用另外一种方式给到我们想要传播的这些年轻人们。

B: We think as a brand ,we can not only focus on products , but also can use all kinds of medias as the carrier , to spread our brand. No matter products, activities, one song or one album. From clothes even to household, or a glass of wine, they all can be vehicle to spread. This LOOKBOOK is the carrier, to record what we want to say and tell the young people in a different way.







K:有什么想尝试的设计或者概念,是至还没落实去做的吗?

K: Do you have any concept or design that wanted to try and haven’t implemented till now?



B:有很多,例如我想做一个亏钱的项目。去做一些摒弃掉市场因素之后,完完全全很纯粹的做衣服也好,设计也好,希望能很有趣并且是想要传达的东西,是忠于自己想法的,再将这些带给我觉得适合的人。无所谓他是名人也好,普通人也好,男女老少都无所谓。希望去做这样的一个求同的事情吧。求同心理,其实所有现阶段的消费者都存在的,你穿这个衣服,我也是穿这个衣服,那我们是一群人。以前跳舞的时候就很想找一个舞团,因为我觉得那边是我的家,这是人本来的一个心理活动。那我在做这个东西的时候其实很想把这个初心一直秉持和牢记着,在设计理念的时候会不受外界的市场或需求控制,能够更加的纯粹,而且是保持这种纯粹。同时能通过个东西找到一些好玩的求同的人。还有其他意义太多就不列举了。

B: Too many, for example I want to make a losing project. Not consider the market impact, just make the clothes, design, spread the things that real interesting, follow my heart to do and bring them to the proper persons. No matter he is a famous star, ordinary person or male, female, young and old. I hope I can do such a similar thing. Seeking common psychological, actually currently consumers have the same concept, if you wear this dress then I will wear also, then we are in the same group. I used to want to find a dance company when I was dancing, because I think it was my home, and it was a mental activity. When I was making this thing I always keep my original will, when the design concept is not controlled by external market and demand, it will be more pureness and keep the pureness. At the same time I can find the same interesting person. There are many other meanings that I won’t be stated one by one now.



K:介绍一下 ROARINGWILD 这一季的产品?

K: Please introduce this season’s product ROARINGWILD.



B:这季春夏的主题叫 Street Buddhist 街头佛陀。首先这个概念我自己觉得是有冲突有比较有趣的。因为佛陀的形象大家都很深刻,比较偏传统宗教的一种形象。跟 Street 其实不太相关,但我觉得他们在精神层面上是很契合的。街头里的 Peace Love Respect 概念是我自己很认同的一个价值观,特别是关于 Respect,尊重。这个主题的一个想法本来也是想告诉大家,并不是穿的街头,在做一些街头的事情,踩个滑板什么的就是街头了。我觉得精神层面很重要,它也是一种信仰。在产品载体的表达上,我们还是用惯了擅长的 Urban Street 的产品去做,但是在颜色上陈列上面加入了之前很少去尝试的一些亮色系去表现。

B: This spring and summer theme is called Street Buddhist. First I think this concept is conflict and interesting. Because the image of Buddhist is profound, it is the kind of image traditional religion. It's not really relevant to Street, but I think they fit in on a spiritual level. The concept of Peace Love Respect on the street is a value that I agree with, especially about Respect. One of the ideas of this theme what I want to tell you at start is that is not the street of wearing like street, do some street things, play the skateboard. I think the spiritual dimension is very important and it's also a belief. In the expression of the product carrier, we still used the products of Urban Street which we are good at, but in the color display we use the bright colors that rarely been tried before.



K:你所理解的街头文化是怎样的?

K: What’s your understanding about street culture?



B:就跟我们的季度主题表达所说的那样,不是你穿什么你做什么,而是你脑子里心里在念想着什么。因为我觉得整个 2017 年所有的人都穿的很街头,大家都在听 Rap,但并不是这样子你就是一个很街头的人,你为了街头而街头,那样就很没有意义。我现在也有很多朋友,在银行上班,已经远离了街头这样的领域,可能每天西装革履的上班之后,下班也会去听 Live Show,也会穿着一身西装踩板。你会发现虽然他穿着西装,在 Live Show 里面唱着Rap的时候他也很街头,他的感觉是对的。所以最重要的是精神层面的 Peace Love Repect,现在的东西 Respect 的太少了,互相之间的尊重都没有了而变得很浮躁,这种是我不认同的街头。

B: As our quarterly expression, it is not about what you wear and what you do, it’s about what you think. Because I think the everyone wears streetwear in 2017, everyone listens to the Rap, but it doesn’t mean you know about street culture. You pretend to like street culture just for the sack of  popular trend , it is meaningless. I have many friends, they are working in bank, they are far away from street, wear the suit every day, but after work they will still listen to the Live how, and play the skateboard with the suit. You will find even they are in the suit, when they sing the rap in Live Show they are still the street man, the feeling is right. So the most important thing is the Peace Love Respect of mental level, but now there is too little Respect, there is no respect for each other and become fickle, that is the street I can’t agree with.






K:你觉得自己最大的缺陷是什么?

K: What’s your biggest flaw?



B:睡觉睡太多吧,我每天必须要睡够 10 个小时。

B: Maybe sleeping too much, I need to sleep enough 10 hours every day.



K:中国很难出现 Visvim 又或 Kolor 这样的品牌,但连 ASSC 和 RIPNDIP 这种套路系品牌都无法出现,你觉得原因是什么?

K: It’s difficult to have the brand like Visvim or Kolor, but neither ASSC and RIPNDIP these kind of routine brand does rarely have, what is the reason?



B:我觉得是中国人太聪明了,品牌消费者媒体各大潮流店铺都很聪明。其实也关乎整个行业,时间上的问题。毕竟对比日本欧洲美国这些品牌来说,沉淀的时间很长了,整个土壤很温润。但在不同国家来说,消费者的水平,品牌店铺媒体再到环境都会有很大的差异在。国内现在的土壤是湿润的,大家都在努力地发芽长成一棵大树,而这个东西是需要方方面面的进步去适应这个环境的。除去环境以外,我们并不能改变太多,像电商、微信、各种房地产的一些问题也好,体制都不一样。但是我们能改变的是我们的品牌、消费者、店铺和媒体,大家都可以去往一个好的方向去走。中国现在是没有这样的品牌,但是以后有可能会有很不一样做法的品牌出现,也会一样有沉淀下来的像 Visvim、Kolor 这样的品牌出现。但是谁知道呢,可能 Time Will Talk 吧。

B: I think Chinese is too smart, brand consumer, media, and the fashion shop are all smart. In fact it is also about the whole industry and time. After all, compared to the Japan, European, American brands, the history is long and the soil is warm. But in different country, the consumer level, brand shop and media, also the environment all have big difference. Domestic soil is warm, everyone is trying to grow up to be a big tree, but these kind of things need to adapt and improve to achieve. Except the environment, we couldn’t change too much, such as E-commerce, WeChat, various real estate problems, the system is different. But we can change our brand, consumer, shop and media, everyone can go a better future. China doesn’t have this kind of brand, but there may be some different brands appear, some maybe like Visvim, Kolor. But who knows, maybe time will talk.






K:如果你在做的事情可以给这个领域带来决定性的变化,你希望这种变化是怎样的?

K: If what you're doing can make a decisive difference in this area, what would you expect?



B:想直接到 2030 年,我觉得到那个时候中国应该会有很棒的东西出现,在一个不断的跌倒再爬起的过程当中,在十几年后就会长大成人,不能太墨守成规地去怀念以前美国甚至日本的辉煌时期。不用太多的去改变什么,就好像我爸妈对于我的教育一样,让我自己去犯错跌倒,不断周而复始,到现在也是一样。我希望到 2030,能有一个很满意的答案给自己,大概是那种感觉吧。

B: I will directly go to 2030, I think by that time China should have great things, in the midst of falling and climbing, in more than a decade he will grow up, you can't just miss the glory days of America or even Japan. You don’t need to change too much, just like the education from my parents, they let me stumble and fall, move in cycles, now it is the same. I hope by 2030, I can have a satisfactory answer for myself, probably like that.










ROARINGWILD X G-SHOCK "BURNING SUN"

























Credits:
Produce: G-SHOCK
Photographer: Kimo Lee, Will Shen
Text: Kimo Lee
Translate: LJC


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